Helpful Hints Page 2

Shepherd's Bush Bulletin Board
Helpful Hints
Page Two Here are a continuation of the hints as posted on the Bulletin Boards.

Lacing to Foam Board	Evening Sampler into a Roll	Evening Sampler into a Roll
Linen Information	Quick Guide to Silks	Acrylic Boxes from The Container Store

Lacing project to foam board:
Posted by Beth - NC
To mount your project, you should use acid-free foam core, not regular. When you're purchasing it at places like Michael's, you have to go to the framing counter and specifically ask for acid-free, or they'll give you regular. Regular has a shiny bright white surface, acid-free is not shiny, and is off-white.

There are 2 thicknesses of foam core - 1/4" and 1/8". The 1/4" foam core is generally used, but I prefer to use 1/8". When you frame a project with glass and double or triple mats, or glass and spacers, there is very little room left in the frame for the foam core unless the frame is extra deep. So I generally use 1/8" foam core, and it all fits in the frame more easily.

To center your project on the piece of foam core you've cut: Lay the project on the foam core, and center it visually. Stretch it slightly in the middle of each side, and use pins - quilting pins or T-pins - to pin the fabric along each edge. (You insert the pin into the foam core on the edge, not through the foam core from front to back.) Then do the same for the top and bottom.

Now center the project by counting threads from the stitch closest to the edge of the project to the thread where you've inserted the pin. Count threads on the left and right sides, and add or subtract so that the number of threads on each side is even. Move your pin(s) accordingly. Do the same for the top and bottom.

Using a contrasting color of sewing thread, baste along the rows you have marked with the pins, go at least as far as the corners. Now pin the project to the foam core: Work from the center out towards the corners, lining up the basting thread with the edge of the foam core to keep the project straight. Insert pins 1/2" to 1" apart. As you pin, stretch slightly as you move out from the center. Pin the opposite side, stretching slightly. Turn and do the other two sides the same way. Once all 4 sides are pinned, go back and insert more pins in between, so that you have pins every 1/8" to 1/4". This is a lot of pins, and it takes quite a bit of time. But your project will be centered, and evenly stretched, and it makes the lacing process very easy.

(Not everyone uses basting thread. You can just use the linen thread where you've marked each side, and keep that thread lined up with the edge of the foam core. But it is more difficult to see and it's easy to get off by a thread or two, so that your project is no longer pinned straight.)

Once you've got it pinned, turn it over and lace the back. Use a heavy thread that won't break if you pull it tightly. Some people recommend string, the kind that's sold on a ball, the kind my mother used to crochet doilies and snowflake ornaments...

Fold top and bottom edges over, and lace back and forth in a zig-zag pattern. Space your stitches about 1/2" apart. Don't try to guess how much thread you need and cut it off. Leave the thread attached to the ball, thread the needle, and pull a bunch free. Take a bunch of zig zag stitches, until you're out of thread at the needle. (Don't bother pulling it tight yet at all.) Pull a bunch more thread free from the ball, and work it through just by pulling on all the zig-zags, until that free thread is at the needle again. Take a bunch more zig zags, until you're out of thread at the needle. Keep repeating, until you've laced over to the right side. (The lacing still isn't tight yet.) Once you've made it all the way to the right side, tie off the thread by taking a straight stitch, straight across and back, and tying the thread to itself.

Now, here comes the tightening. Starting from where you tied off, work your way back from right to left, and pull each zig zag until it's really tight. When you're back to the left side, tie it off (same way you tied off the right side), and cut your string free. No waste of string, no guessing.

Turn it, and do the same in the other direction.

Once you're done lacing, remove the pins and the basting thread, if you used it. You're done!

(Not everyone uses pins, sometimes people just lace it. But with a big project especially, pinning helps you to get it straight and centered the first time. The project tends to shift around as you lace it, if it isn't pinned in place. Then you have to recenter it as you tighten your lacing, and that's not easy to do.)

If my piece is long and skinny, I usually start with the long sides when I'm pinning and when I'm lacing. For some reason, it's easier for me to get it tight.

I admit, it's time consuming. But when you see how much money you save by stringing your own projects and assembling everything yourself, you'll be amazed!!!

Shepherd's Bush Evening Sampler into a Roll:
Posted by Delfi

For those of you interested in stitching up Evening Sampler into a roll, here are the instructions:

Size in stitches: 49w x 61h Height is approximate. It depends on how wide the lace you use measures. I used lace that measured 1.5" wide.

Number your rows/bands along the pattern, starting with the house as row one. As a guide, the children should be row 8, the verse row 11 and the heart/vine row 15.

The needleroll pattern is as follows:
Stitch Row 1: Band 5
(Then skip 2 threads)

Row 2: First line of Band 11
(skip 4 threads)

Row 3: Bands 14 & 15, as charted
(skip 2 threads below bottom beads)

Row 4: Band 5
(skip 2 threads)

Row 5: Band 10
(skip 2 threads)

Row 6: Lace Band
(skip 4 threads from the bottom of your lace)

Row 7: Band 12
(skip 4 threads)

Row 8: Band 5

I used 28 count Cashel Linen Platinum so my lace pattern would show better. My stitching area measured 4.25w x 3.5h. I cut my fabric 7w x 12.5h. I counted out 30 threads, cut and removed four, for the ribbon row. Then I counted out 24 threads, cut and removed four for my hemstitching row.

Gathered Hours Needleroll:
Posted by Delfi

Here are the instructions for the needleroll I made by adapting an existing SB design.

Use 32ct. cream belfast, cut 12 x 7. The leaflet is Gathered Hours. I used the pincushion design (on back) for this NR. Just extend the patterns in each band until they match the one with the children. I skipped four threads beneath the checker pattern band and used the following eight threads to insert the words "gathered hours." I borrowed these from the main design in the leaflet, using the word "gathered" plus the "h" from "here", then went to "hours" to complete it with "-ours." You need to come in 18 threads from the left margin to begin these words. I used the spaces at the beginning and end to place a rose quartz heart bead, but you can also borrow the little flower buds from the Lamb Shaker Box design in the leaflet.

I then skipped another four threads and continued the design as charted, extending the patterns on all remaining bands. I placed an one inch wide piece of bridal floral lace four threads below the last band. Beaded as usual, withdrew four threads thirty threads away from top and bottom edge, and again twenty-four threads away from the first withdrawn area. Hemstitched as usual. I used a beautiful piece of sheer pink organdy ribbon to tie off the ends. You will LOVE it!! IT IS PRECIOUS!!!!

Quick Guide to Silks
Posted by Donna

This is a QUICK GUIDE TO SILKS when working with Au Ver a Soie Silk floss, especially with any of the Shepherd’s Bush kits.

The first thing to remember with these flosses is that they are very fragile, much more so than any DMC floss that you’ve used in the past. They tend to break easily and lay crooked (when stitching with two threads), which can cause you to use more thread and have a lop-sided looking piece once you’re finished. The following hints should be used (at your own comfort level and preference) as needed to help make your stitchwork look fabulous !!!!!!

Always remember to separate you flosses and keep them organized. I have found that silks (like most specialty threads) tend to knot up VERY easily. If your kit does not have one included in it, invest in a floss organizer. They sell them at any LNS or craft store (like AC Moore or Michaels) and I’ve even seen them at Wal-Mart and K-Mart too. They’re usually only a couple dollars and well worth the investment since you’ll most likely re-use it with future kits.

When stitching, remember to use shorter pieces of silk. What I usually do is take the one-ply of silk floss and cut it in half. This will give you smaller pieces to stitch with and can prevent your floss from knotting up during the stitching process.

I recommend using a high-quality needle when stitching with silks. I usually use Piecemakers Tapestry Size 24 or John James Platinum Size 24/26/28 needles for my projects. But remember, this is your own personal choice. I have found that even some of the so-called "high quality" needles on the market will still shred your floss to bits while your stitching so use whatever your comfortable with.

I prefer to stitch silks in a dampened state. Now, I don’t mean soaking wet, because silk floss should not be laundered in any way !!!!! By damp, I mean just damp to the touch, enough that the silk will be a bit more pliable and easier to stitch with. If you have it too wet, especially when stitching on a hand-dyed fabric, you’ll run the risk of the fabric "bleeding" into the floss. Trust me on this (from experience), it’s not a pretty site !!!! I use a thread "stripper" which is just a small lucite box with a lid that contains a small sponge. The idea is that you wet the sponge inside (I use filtered or distilled water for this......NOT REGULAR WATER !!) and you then draw the threads across the of the sponge, dampening the thread. I find that works great for rayons and silks, but PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS ON ANY OVER-DYED OR HAND-DYED FLOSSES!!!! The colors will bleed and then you’ll have a real mess on your hands.

Editor's Note: Donna mentions never to wash silk threads. I always wash my projects (except overdyed), including silk. I have never, ever had a problem. As long as you handle the project carefully, use mild soap such as Ivory and cool water, your project will come out beautiful!!

Linen Information
Posted by Betsy, Elizabeth, Diane, Marci, Delfi, Peggy, Birdie, Carla

Cashel
28 ct.
Nicer quality than off brand linens
Belfast
32 ct.
Nicer quality than off brand linens
Edinborough
36 ct.
Nicer quality than off brand linens
Glenshee
28 ct.
Thick and beautiful
Hard to find
More expensive
Royal Crown Danish
28 and 32 ct.
Softer, not as much body, but woven with fairly consistent threads.
Lugana
52% cotton/48% rayon
20 ct (formerly Valerie), 25 ct and 28 ct (formerly Brittney)
It is by Wichelt
Does not hold is shape as well as Jobelan when framing
Matte finish
Jobelan
51% cotton/49% polyster
16, 25, 26, 28 and 32 ct.
It is by Zweigart
Sheen in the finish
Even and smooth threads
Dublin linen
25 ct.
Very loose weave.
Annabelle
28 ct.
It is by Zweigart
100% cotton
Slub in the fabric (like linen)
Lighter weight fabric
Jubilee
28 ct.
It is by Zweigart
100% cotton
Pretty heavy and thick, more like Lugana in weight

Acrylic Box from The Container Store
Here is the info for the wonderful little acrylic boxes to hold your beads. You can get them from The Container Store. They have a web site and their phone is 800/733-3532.
The little box number is 060140. The are about $.35 each and measure 1"x1"x3/4" high with a tight fitting lid. These boxes come is different colors, but I suggest the clear for bead storage.
There are larger boxes to organize these smaller ones. One such box is number 312240. About $5.99. Measures 11"x6-1/2"x1-3/4"high. It was 3 hinges on one side and snaps closed on the other.
You'll love them!!! ... Here are some pics:

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