The leader for the first chapter will be Maribeth.
Hope everyone has all their materials...now you can sort them! I will be doing the beading last so it is up to ya'll if you want to bead as you go or wait til the end and add them all plus the charms.
I took my linen and wet it then ironed it on steam setting to get out all the creases and folds before starting. Then I attached mine to scroll rods- I used 20 inch rods since my fabric is cut larger than necessary (personal choice).
I don't baste my fabric so if those of you prefer to please feel free to go ahead and baste. My method for finding the center is to measure both ways (length and width) to find the center and mark it with a needle. I counted up 221 threads from the center to get the starting point at the very top.
You can find your starting point by measuring down from the center. To do this you would measure the whole length and subtract the finished design size from that to get the leftover difference which is usually 6 inches since most people allow for 3 inches all around. Then half the difference and measure that downward from the top and center it- your starting point!
I will be back on Sunday sometime to check and see if everyone is all ready to go and then I will put up the first official posting on Monday for band one. I don't want to jump too far ahead of the next leader who assures me she should be ready by mid-August.
Okay here we go!!! Grab those needles and lets stitch away!
As I mentioned in the earlier posting for preparing.... I found my center by measuring the width and halving that. Then I counted up 221 threads to find my starting point. If you do not want to count the threads- feel free to measure down from the top whatever your difference is from the design size.
Here are some Abbreviations I will use for the thread bands:
Au Ver= Au Ver A Soie Silks
RG= Rainbow Gallery Splendor
DMC
Anch= Anchor
READY?????? When you get ready to make that first stitch make sure your needle is coming up on a vertical thread. I think this will be hardest for me to explain. When you bring your needle up, the linen thread at the right of the needle should be running "up and down" (vertical) and it will be going over a horizontal thread. If this is still confusing you, please post it and see if someone has an easier explanation. Thanks!
****** Those of you who are using Au Ver A Soie Silks or Elegance Silks, be very careful because the thread has a tendency to kink up and requires patient (!!!!) stitching to ensure it is laying flat and smooth.. especially using two strands. Ideally you should not wet this thread as it is apt to bleed or fade. It is very important that you wash your hands frequently and keep them off the fabric as much as possible to avoid transplanting oils/dirt/sweat/etc onto the linen as it cannot be washed after using silks and overdyed flosses. ******
To use silk wisely, stitch your rows by going one way across the row ///// and then make the return trip the other way to complete your Xs. You'll find the threads on the back of your work will look vertical. This will keep your back neat and not waste the silk. Naturally, if you only have one color here and one color there, then you will of course complete the X as you go.
When you use the Sunrise Blue Overdyed and the Forest Green Overdyed threads.. you will make each X as you go. This brings out the best of the thread combination. When you make the //// using overdyed you do not get the best effect so be sure and make each X as you go when you use the overdyed floss in xstitch. In this chapter, the Sunrise Blue is used in the over one cross stitch of the letter G. So here we will make each stitch as we go when we reach that band.
BAND ONE:
I chose to start my sampler from the center working outwards. If you prefer to start from the left margin then by all means go ahead. I find it easier to do the first band from the center thusly establishing the margins.
Thread your needle with two strands of Dk Blue (Au Ver #1714; RG #S915; DMC 931; or AN #1034). Now count two threads down (or one square) from the center starting point and come up in the left lower hole and begin making your cross stitches following the symbol of triangle facing right (Dk Blue). From here you should be able to complete all cross stitching on your own.. this will be the most time consuming part of the sampler (at least to date it is!)
It took me about 4-5 days of evening stitching to complete ALL the cross stitch in band one. I admit to a bit of distraction to the TV but not too much!
After all cross stitch is complete... you will now stitch the Double Leviathan in the center of the motif. Thread your needle with ONE strand of Lt Blue (Au Ver #4041; RG # S855; DMC 3752; or AN 1032). Make a waste knot- what this refers to is you knot the tail end and park the knot on the front of your fabric about 2-3 inches from the center of the design (when using a waste knot at the beginning of a row, you would park the knot 2-3 inches horizontal of that band) and following the diagram/chart find the starting point for the Double Leviathan.
**** NAN sets beautiful diagrams so I will not talk you through them too much unless it is warranted due to degree of difficulty.
With the Double Leviathan- follow the diagram.. all stitches are numbered and all of them go over four threads into the center.
After you have completed the final stitch in the Double Leviathan, weave the thread carefully under a row of stitches to tie off. Now snip the waste knot at the base of the knot and thread the tail that's left... bring it under and weave carefully under a row of threads to tie off.
Now we will do the Round Eyelets. Here you use the same color thread as with the Double Levithan. These are one of the easiest stitches to do. Using the diagram/chart find the placement of your first stitch and come up there and go over two threads into the center all around. Be careful to watch the placement using the diagram (B) in the packet. REMEMBER TO TUG GENTLY TO OPEN THE CENTER. After each Eyelet you will tie off by weaving under a row of threads before resuming the next Eyelet.
Now we will do the row of Triple Leviathans. Since you will have placed four cross stitches here it will help with placement of the stitches in the Triple Leviathan. Thread your needle with TWO strands of Med Blue (Au Ver #1713; RG #S914; DMC 932; or AN 1033) ....
You might want to use ONE strand if you would like a more delicate look. One of our other leaders (Linda P) made the personal choice of using ONE strand and said it was more delicate looking).
Make a waste knot and park the knot about 2-3 inches horizontal to the left of the band. Find your starting point for the Triple Leviathan using the diagram. It would be one stitch (2 threads) above the triangle on the left. Follow the diagram to complete the Triple Leviathan.
Many of us prefer to add the beads LAST to avoid any crushing during the process of rolling with Scrolls or clamping with QSnaps. It is a matter of personal choice but there will be a posting about adding the beads at the end of chapter 4 with that chapter's leader.
Now have fun! I will check the BB periodically and check my email too in case there are any questions or problems. The next post will be over the weekend (very likely Saturday) because the rest of it will go a bit speedier!
If anyone needs more help please feel free to email me and I will be very happy to help however means necessary!
Hey!
So how did everyone do on the first band??? Hope there were no problems with the
stitching and specialty stitches...
BAND TWO:
To find your starting point for band two- you have two choices on how to go by this. Thread your needle with two strands of Dk Blue (Au Ver #1714; RG S915; DMC 931; or AN
1034) to begin the cross stitch section with. You have two choices on how to begin this row- you could start on the left and work all the way across by doing this: find the bottom bow symbol square that is flush with the left margin (Au Ver #5024; RG S838; DMC 501; or AN 878) and count down 13 stitches to start your cross stitch section from the left beginning point. From there you will begin the pattern of triangles in the chart which are
all made in xstitch.
OR you could start from the center and work left to the end and go back and work from the center to the right end. To do this you find the center Triple Leviathan in band one then count down two stitches and start the first there. Be sure there is only ONE ROW separating the two bands (one row= one square= one stitch).
After you have completed all the cross stitches (triangles) in the band, you will now begin the satin stitches. Thread your needle with two strands of the white (Au Ver Bright Blanc; RG S802; DMC white; or AN 002). Park your waste knot about 2 inches to the left of the band. Now count up 3 stitches from the blue X on the left margin (the first triangle) come up here and go down following the diagram. The diagram is perfectly executed so please follow it carefully as you make the satin stitches all the way across the top section. BE SURE AND DOUBLE-CHECK YOUR PLACEMENT- it can get a bit tricky.
**** You will need to go a little slower than usual with the satin stitches because you have two strands and with the silk you want ensure they are laying nice and flat/smooth. Some of you might find a laying tool helpful here. ****
After you have completed the white satin row across the top of the cross stitches.. carefully weave the thread through the back of the xstitches to tie off. Go back and snip the knot of your waste knot and weave the tail through the back on that end.
Now you will thread your needle with two strands of Med Blue
(Au Ver #1713; RG S914; DMC 932; AN 1033) and come up flush with the right lower hole of the first X on the left margin and repeat the pattern of satin stitches following the diagram. Again be careful to watch the placement. Work all the way to the end and tie off same as with the top.
I found this band took me a whole evening to finish since I had to really go slower than usual to make sure placement was correct with the satin stitches plus ensure the silks were laying nice and flat.
BAND THREE:
To work this row- watch the chart diagram very carefully to ensure proper placement. Once you complete a few of the 7-Crosses you will get the hang of it and move quicker.
Thread your needle with one strand of the Elegance or DMC Perle Cotton (RG E935 or DMC #8 Perle 3042). Park your waste knot about 2-3 inches to the left). Count down three threads (one and half stitch) and come up. Follow the diagram for your placements. I found it much easier to count the threads to ensure proper placement.
Have fun! Again if there are any confusion or problems or snags run into- please do not hesitate to email or post and I will be checking both daily. I will be back with the final post for chapter one in about a weeks time. After that I will welcome Meredith on board to lead y'all through chapter two!
BAND FOUR:
Thread your needle with the overdyed Sunrise Blue (one strand). Remember- here we will be doing the petite stitches.. which is a term for over one thread. This will be trickier and require more concentration than stitching over two threads. AND because we are using the overdyed you MUST make each stitch as you go or you will not achieve the full effect of the overdyed blends.
Create a waste knot just to the left of the band row OR stitch over the tail whichever you prefer. Count down four threads from the left margin of band three and then count over 9 threads to start at the topmost symbol of the G. And make your stitches over only ONE thread.
You can choose how you stitch the G. What I did was I stitched the body of the G first proceeding to the tail end then I coordinated the overdyed strand to match the topmost part and stitched the remainder of the G top.
After you finish stitching the G... thread your needle with one strand of dark blue (Au Ver 1714; RG S915; DMC 931; or AN 1034) and follow the diagram to make your backstitches for the verse lettering. Be careful not to drag in between words because the dark blue thread will show up on the front. Weave the tail carefully through the back of the verse letters so it does not show then tie off and count over to complete the next word....
BAND FIVE:
This band is a bit trickier but it does really is not as complicated as it seems. You have to watch the placement of the Laced Wheels though. If you follow these directions you should have an easier time than I did initially with the printed instructions!
First- thread your needle with medium green (Au Ver 5023; RG S837; DMC 502; or AN 877) and park your waste knot to the left of the band.
Count down from BAND THREE 13 stitches then drop down one thread and come up there. Follow carefully: go over four threads come down go UNDER seven threads and come up
go OVER seven threads and come down go UNDER seven threads and come up repeat til you reach the end (you will not cover seven at the end but rather two threads to come flush with the right margin) DO NOT TIE OFF!
Now you will drop ONE thread down on the right margin and repeat the pattern going back to the left margin exactly as the first row of darning stitches.
Again DO NOT TIE OFF. Drop down one thread and repeat the pattern to the right margin.
AGAIN DO NOT TIE OFF. Drop down one thread and repeat the pattern back to the left margin. Now you will tie off by carefully weaving through the darning stitches at the back. Do the same with the waste knot tail.
Thread your needle with one strand of dark green. Again make a waste knot to the left of the band. Now you will repeat the darning stitches BUT you will be going down the two center darning lines you have already made to put the dark green strands parallel to the med green ones.
Come up where it says B on the diagram which is the second darning band you made in med green. Use a laying tool or just use caution and a needle or fingernail to gently move the medium green strand so that the dark green strand you will make will lie parallel to the medium green. You will make the dark green darning stitches all the way to the right margin exactly as you made the previous ones (over four under seven over seven...etc). At the end of the first dark green row you will drop down one thread and repeat going back to the left margin being careful to lay the dark green threads parallel to the medium green ones.
Tie off carefully and do the same to the waste knot tail.
NOW comes the fun part- it requires a bit of concentration to ensure proper placement.
Thread your needle with RG Elegance E823 or #8 perle 778. Again make your waste knot and park it to the left of the band. Now use the diagram to watch your placement... you will make the numbered vertical stitches first. Follow the diagram to make all the numbered lines of vertical and diagonal stitches. You should be able to carry the thread over to the next Laced Wheel in the row. Do not pull the stitches tightly.
Once you have completed all the wheel stitches... tie off carefully and do same to the waste knot tail.
Thread your needle with Elegance E824 or #8 perle 316... and use the diagram to come up where it says X. I found no asterisk in my diagram so I ignored it and used the X. Your needle should come up under the thread you made with the previous color- where it is numbered 15-16. Bring your needle up there.....
You will be "wrapping" the thread around and under the stitches you have made. After you come up at the X, you will carry the thread over the two strands (16 and 14 on the diagram) then tuck the needle UNDER strands 8 and 5.. AT NO POINT DOES YOUR NEEDLE GO BENEATH THE LINEN. You are just weaving under and over the strands of E823 or #8 perle 778.
You will repeat the over and under weaving to create TWO circles... after you have made the second circle bring your needle DOWN to the back of the linen at the X. Now weave it carefully to tie off and do the same with your waste knot tail.
Now you are done with chapter one! It was a pleasure to lead you through this and I hope no one was unduly confused or frustrated. If you have any problems with chapter one please do not hesitate to email me or post your problem.
I chose to add my beads etc at the end so I have not led you through this part. BUT it does not mean you cannot choose to go ahead and add them now.
Click here for Chapter 2
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