CSC Teaching Sampler Group Instructions

Group Project Instructions for
The Drawn Thread's Teaching Band Sampler

Marj's very own sampler!
Click on image for larger view

This group project was lead by Joanie Lintz of Binghamton, NY!
She did a wonderful job as you will see!

Areas 1 & 2

Hi Everyone!
I am going to post the first set of instructions today, cause I am sure that many of you who are waiting to stitch this beauty are just itchin' to be stitchin' it. To begin, I zigzagged the fabric edges to keep it from fraying.

First of all, using sewing thread, I basted a horizontal and vertical line through the center of my fabric, the width and length of the fabric. I then figured out the placement of a basting thread to mark the outer border vertically and horizontally. I also basted a vertical thread to mark the interior portion of pattern. I only did this on the left of the design.

Area 1: From the center vertical basting line, I counted down from my upper basting line and to the left to find the first stitch of the Algerian Eye alphabet (the top of the A). The Algerian Eye is an easy stitch and I loved the look of the alphabet when it was finished. Once I had the ABC stitched, I used a larger needle to open the eye; I wiggled the tip of the needle in the center of the stitch. The flowers are simply crossed stitched and the stems are backstitched.

Area 2: Counting down 8 threads and aligning the first stitch of the Herringbone Stitch with the edge of the Algerian Eye alphabet, I followed the stitch diagram and stitched the herringbone. This is done with the Soie d'Alger silks 4633. When I wrapped the herringbone stitch with the dusty blue (1736) silk, I didn't pull this thread at all, but let it lay on the top of the herringbone stitch. It is very pretty and I loved working with the silks. Take your time wrapping the herringbone cause tension is important. I didn't want to distort the herringbone stitch beneath the wrap.

This is the first set of instructions to Teaching Band Sampler. I hope that they are clearer than mud. Please work it within 2 weeks. Post your thoughts and questions. Next Wednesday, post your progress! These 2 areas didn't take along time to do. If you want, work ahead and post what you have done.

Areas 3 & 4

Some of you wanted to start with the borders instead of the Algerian Eye alphabet. That's ok as long as you remember not to go past area 9. Why? Cause when you get to the ladder hemstitch, you will be cutting threads and reweaving them back into the fabric. I know that PamB did the borders first and it worked fine for her, so if you count carefully, you could do that too and be ok. I started the borders now, but I am past both the hemstitched areas. I am using the outside borders as a placement guide. Currently, I am on the Area 14. Be sure to read the posts on it, I brought them nearer to the top of the forum. There is an error, if I am not mistaken, the area is not square. Marj posts a very thorough explanation on it and what to watch for. It took awhile for me to get the queen stitch down and now I am ripping out some of the border cause I miscounted it.

Also, is the pace too fast or too slow for you? Let me know and we can pick it up or keep going at our 2 week intervals.

Now onto week 2:
We will be working on areas 3 and 4. Once again, they are really self explanatory. Area 3 begins 4 threads down from the wrapped herringbone stitch (any saggy wraps out there?)and in line with the first herringbone stitch. Follow the diagram for the sequence of the stitch. Your stitches will be sharing legs as you work each stitch. In other words, there will be 2 threads sharing the same holes when you work the stitches that are stacked together. Remember this stitch is NOT pulled like the interior border. You will be using the Navajo Waterlillies silks. What a great fiber to work with and when you are done with this part of the alphabet it is so pretty with the color changes.

Area 4:
This band is done with a 3 sided stitch in DMC 3023. This is a pulled stitch and as the instructions state, you will be working right to left and each leg is stitched 2 times. Don't forget to pull the stitches on each pass, you want to open up the holes for a lacy effect.

Begin 8 threads down from the letter I, and 4 threads in from the right edge of the alphabet (for placement). The stitch should begin lined up with the 2nd right 4 sided stitch on the letter I. This isn't a hard stitch to do, just remember to make each pass 2 times and pull the stitches to open up the holes.

Well, there you go, Week 2! Please post your progress (with photos if you can). It would be nice to see how far everyone has come! Enjoy the next 2 weeks working on this very beautiful sampler. Please post any comments or concerns and most definitely post if you don't understand how to do something!

Band Sampler 2a

How is TBS going for you? I am now skipping around trying to make sure everything is aligned and in order. I *grew* my sampler by 2 threads when I miscounted and cut my threads for the hemstitched band 2 threads further down than I was supposed to. I looked at the wrong area on the pattern, thought I should count down 6 and *snip* it was done! Then I realized that I had looked at the wrong area of the chart! I didn't panic though, I just figured I would compensate later down toward the bottom. That was my motivation to do the outside borders. I laid the pulled thread border in area 14 in and then I stitched the *over ones*. Speaking of over one's, Pam B. sent me a freebie (thanks PAM!!!) that had great instructions for stitching over one. The instructions are as follows: *When the horizontal thread (weft) is positioned over the vertical thread (warp), this is the sequence of the stitch. Up at lower left, down at upper right, up at upper left and down at lower right. The working thread on the back of the fabric will be horizontal.

When the vertical thread is on top of the horizontal thread the sequence is: Up at lower left, down at upper right, up at lower right and down at upper left. The working thread will be vertical on the back of the fabric.

As far as band 14 goes, GRRRRR!!! This is what I would do in hindsight: First, I would stitch the outside borders (pulled 4-sided stitch and the zigzag cross stitched border) on the left side, to help place this area. Then, I would do a basting stitch to mark the area to be done. Area 14 measures vertically 99 threads. That number includes the upper and lower horizontal outside border. This is where the outer borders come in handy. You can place the borders of area 14 in relation to the pulled 4 stitch border. Then, I would stitch the upper horizontal border. Begin the pulled stitch border 3 threads in from the left border and end it 3 threads before the right border. That will establish the horizontal borders. Next I would stitch the left vertical border, and the lower horizontal border. The right vertical border should fall into place. I hope that this set of instructions will prevent you from frogging that area like I have. I think that I frogged it 4 or 5 times. But you have to remember that I was off 2 threads to begin with from my previous error. I wish you luck and yes, once you get through it, because it is so beautiful, you will forget the bother that it caused.

Post your progress and if you need any clarification to the above instructions, please email or post your questions. There's a wealth of help out there for the asking! Happy stitching for the week. I will be posting the next set of instructions early because I will not be here the last week of March. So keep an eye out for them!

Areas 5 & 6

I know that this is early, but I will not be here next week to post the assignment. I am going on my first business trip, a class. Wish me luck!

Ok, this week we are going to work Area 5 and Area 6. Area 5 is the Rice stitch Alphabet, done in DMC 3041 (letters K & M) and DMC 3743 (letter L). The stitch, once again is easy to do, just follow the instructions and diagram. It begins 4 threads below Area 4 (Three sided stitch) and it lines up with the previous bands. I liked the color of the letters K and M, but I found the letter L too light for my tastes. I didn't change the color though. Area 6 is also 4 stitches below Area 5 and aligns itself with the previous bands. It is done with one strand of DMC flower thread, Medium blue green. It is a cool stitch and I liked the pattern it made across the band. It is self explanatory too ( boy, my job so far is easy), just remember that the pairs share a leg.

Well, that's it for the next 2 weeks. I hope that you have pleasant stitching times ahead. Post your progress (I know that many of you are way ahead of my directions, and that's ok).

Areas 7, 8 & 9

Assignment 4:
We will be doing bands 7 & 8 & 9 this next 2 weeks. I added an extra band to this assignment so that we can do the hemstitched bands together.

Band 7 is a very easy band. It is the satin stitch alphabet. It lines up with the previous bands on the left. There are 4 threads between this band and the foliage stitched band. That will be the top of the alphabet, so insert you needle 6 threads down from the foliage stitched band to begin the *N*. You have to decide if one thread of DMC 316 is enough coverage for you. I did it with one thread, it is skimpy, but, I tried with 2 and it looked heavier than everything else, so I decided to do it with 1 thread.

Area 8 is the Greek stitch band. It is separated by Area 7 by 4 threads also. You will follow the stitch diagram provided. This band also is also aligned with the previous band. It is done with DMC 613, Golden Brown Light. I found it relaxing and pretty when done.

The last area to be done this week is area 9, the Diagonal Satin Stitch Alphabet. It is done with the waterlilies silk floss, Navajo. I just loved working with that silk and I absolutely love the colors in it. It is also done 4 stitches down from the previous band and aligns itself with the left edge of the bands above too. Insert your needle 6 threads down from the Greek Stitch Band to start. Each block represents one diagonal satin stitch.

That's it for the next 2 weeks! I hope that everyone is stitching and loving the sampler. It is so pretty. Post your comments, questions and concerns.

Have a great 2 weeks and update your progress!

Areas 10, 11, & 12

I know that there are people who either haven't gotten to these areas of cut-work yet or who are waiting to start this piece. I want to give you a "heads up" to a problem which you should take note of. This will be a particular problem for people who skip around in their stitching because you may not save enough room for these areas. While the graph shows that Area 10 and Area 12 take up four horizontal threads, the charts in the booklet show clearly that Area 10 takes up eight horizontal threads. How did I figure that? You are going to cut 4 horizontal threads but the hemstitching to gather up those threads takes up two additional threads top and bottom. If you skip four threads to start this area, you will have only two threads between area 9 and area 10. If you skip this band completely, leaving the space shown for it, you could possibly end up with no threads between Area 9 and Area 10. This will also be a problem for Area 12. I must say that I am going to be spending some time studying Area 14 before I tackle it! Hope this helps....

If my feeble mind recalls, we finished everything up to the hemstitched bands. So today, we will be doing Area 10, Area 11 and Area 12. The photo has the hemstitched bands reversed, so if you want to do the serpentine hemstitching first that's ok. There really isn't anything different as far as I can tell. Just count carefully. That will be our mantra for these 3 bands...COUNT CAREFULLY.

Area 10 begins 4 threads down from the previous band. Find the EXACT center of your fabric and cut 4 horizontal threads. (Yes, take a deep breath, count again and SNIP 4 threads! Trust me the first cut is the hardest. Whew, it's done!). Thread the cut threads into a needle who's eye will accommodate the thickness of the threads and reweave them into the ground fabric. Follow the weave of the fabric and reweave them 5-6 threads. Make sure that you follow the weave of the fabric. You will end up with an area with just vertical threads. Using DMC #12 follow the stitch diagram. I used a waste knot to begin and at the end I rewove the thread through the previous stitches. When I was through with the bottom band, I ended it and flipped my stitching upside down to do the top of the hemstitching band. The other thing that I did was pull the threads tightly, but not so tight that they overlapped. I made sure that laid side by side.

Area 11 is pretty easy, just follow the instructions. It took a few tries to get the sequence down, but once I did it went fast. It's done with silks.

Area 12 is the serpentine hemstitch. I liked the look of this pattern a lot. Prepare your fabric the same way you prepared it for Area 10. The only difference is the pattern of stitching. The first pass is done like Area 10- group 4 vertical threads. When you flip the piece, you will regroup the threads so that you get a zigzag pattern. Skip over the first 2 vertical threads, bring up your needle next to the 3rd thread and start your stitching pattern.

There are other tips on the forum for the hemstitching. I have to agree that if I did it again, I would remove a ground thread. I found that the reweaving made my edges thicker than what I would've liked. Also, I fussed with it a lot and the edges got fuzzy.

So that's the hemstitching area. Not too bad, and the results are lovely. Happy stitching and HAPPY MAY! Once again, comments, suggestions and questions are more than welcome.

Areas 13 & 14

Hope everyone made it through the pulled thread portion of the pattern. See it wasn't as bad as everyone thought! And it came out very pretty. I have to admit when I did that portion of the graph, I played and played with it, to the point that I thought that I would ruin it. I had to tell myself to leave it alone!

Ok...we are at Area 13- Gobelin Stitch- worked with the Medici Wool. It is really an easy band to work, start it on the right side but come in one thread so that it comes out even. It is also 4 threads down from the previous band. It is done with vertical stitches and it is pretty self-explanatory.

Area 14 is the verse, done over one with the overdyed floss, Mulled Wine. I liked working over one, but I didn't follow the correct instructions to do over one. It came out just fine for me, but if you want great instructions for over one go to this website: www.heartscontent.com. The instructions are under stitching tips. There are diagrams and detailed instructions regarding over one. I printed them out but got frustrated trying to juggle scroll rods, instructions and graphs. So I just winged it.

Now, at this point, you must make a decision. The next band is the Pulled Satin Stitched Border. I frogged it a lot because it was difficult to count. So, if you want you can start to do the pulled 4 sided stitch border (Area 18 ) . I found that working the 4 sided stitch border helped mark the vertical portion of area 14. It wasn't hard to count and place the satin stitch border horizontally, but vertically I had a hard time. If you do start Area 18 work it only as far as the bottom of the Pulled satin stitched border. You don't have to do the entire interior border to mark where the pulled satin stitched border begins and ends.

Well, that's the next lesson. Thanks to everyone who voiced their interest.

Area 14 part 1

With Joanie's permission, I will try to guide you through the "dreaded" Area 14 on TBS. I have finished this area and it is lovely, well worth the effort. Our first hint is that contrary to Cynthia's directions, it is far easier to stitch this area and know where you are if you have at least stitched the pulled four-sided outside border down to and past Area 14. This gives you a frame of reference. Don't finish the outside border since you want to have room to extend it if you have a counting error or if you changed spacing between bands. Next, it helps to understand what the problem is: If you look at Area 14 on the stitch diagram and on the chart, you will see that the chart shows the pulled satin stitch border as being over 2 threads, in conflict with the stitch diagram which shows it over 3 threads. What helped me tremendously was a post from Joann in TX dated October 28, 1999. Her friend had received instructions from Cynthia after e-mailing her with the problems stitching this area. I have adapted those instructions:

1. Think of Area 14 as a box to be filled in. Use the stitch diagram, not the chart. Study the stitch diagram carefully before you stitch.

2. Begin your placement by counting down 6 threads(not stitches) from the bottom of the left side of the verse. Count in 3 threads to the right. This is your starting point. It is shown clearly in the stitch diagram.

3. Now, begin making vertical satin stitches over 3 threads, with no threads in between, pulling tightly as you stitch. Work from top to bottom. HINT: It is easier to do a pulled stitch neatly and evenly if you pull up on the stitch (ie. when the thread is on the top of the fabric).

4. Continue working across the area until you are 3 threads from the end of the right part of the verse ("tulip").

5. Now you are gong to work an equal number of satin stitches down the right hand side of the Area. Cynthia says that this box should be 96 by 96 threads.

6. Work the bottom stitches then the left side. You now have a box.

Now you will stitch the middle border of 7 horizontal satin stitches over 3 threads, pulling tightly. Note that you start stitching this border 6 threads in from the beginning of the outer border (you are leaving room for the broad diagonal cross stitch at each corner of the box).

1. Start at the 7th thread. Your first stitch will share holes with the outer border of pulled satin stitches. Notice there are no threads between these groups of 7 stitches.

2. Continue stitching until you have finished the middle border on all four sides.

You will now stitch the inner border of vertical pulled satin stitches over 3 threads. Your beginning point is 3 threads to the right of the bottom of the first row of horizontal satin stitches. Do all four sides in the same way. THE BOX IS NOW COMPLETED!

A few other hints:

Doing this much pulled thread work encourages us just to pull off and use a very long piece of perle coton. Don't give in to this temptation. With the pulling you are doing, the thread wears and loses its sheen quickly. Use an 18" length for best results. Start these stitches with an away waste knot or a waste knot in the path of the stitches.

I hope these instructions will help. If anyone spots an error or wishes to offer any other hints, please post. I will try to post instructions on the queen's stitch flower by Wednesday.

Area 14, part 2

Thank you for the kind words about Part 1. In this part, we are going to fill in the box we created in Part 1.

Broad Diagonal Cross Stitch. In each of the four corners of the box, you will stitch a broad diagonal cross stitch with one strand of Cherry Waterlilies. It fits in the 6 thread by 6 thread space. The stitch is illustrated very well in Cynthia's instructions. Note there will be a bead in the center of each. I am saving the beading on my piece until the end.

Queen Stitch Flower. Queen stitches become much easier every time you do them. I enjoyed the ones in TBS and the flower is very pretty. If you are unsure of this stitch or have never done it before, please take a half an hour and practice it on a doodle cloth. Tension is important in this stitch and the more you do, the more even and uniform your stitches become. Because you are using the lovely overdyed Cherry Waterlilies for the flower (and the Needle Necessities Spruce for the bottom portion), take the time to look at the Cherry Waterlilies and pick a piece with a nice mixture of colors, including plenty of Cherry. Don't be afraid to cut off portions of the color you don't like. This will personalize your flower and give it the bright glow it needs. To begin this section, I used a waste knot in the path of the stitches. How you do a queen stitch is well-illustrated in Cynthia's stitch diagram. Note that each queen stitch occupies a 4 thread by 4 thread space. You will be starting at the top queen stitch and building down. After placing your waste knot, find the top center of your box. Count down 12 threads and bring the Waterlilies to the front of the fabric. You are now at the bottom of your first queen stitch(#1 at Cynthia's stitch diagram). Follow Cynthia's stitch diagram. I try to make my vertical stitch a bit taut so that the small horizontal stitch that you use to place it stretches it to a nice sideways.

Now look at the chart and see how the rest of the queen stitches nestle in. If you count the second row of queen stitches starting from the left, I would start stitching with the 2nd or 3rd queen stitch so that you are building directly from the top one. Less room for error. If you use the 2nd queen stitch as an example, you would count down four threads from the outside horizontal thread marked "15-16" on Cynthia's stitch diagram (on the left hand of the first queen stitch), come up at that point and then come down, i.e. share a hole with "15". Your first horizontal stitch would share an ending hole with the bottom of the 1st queen stitch. Please note that there are Needle Necessities Spruce Queen Stitches under the Cherry Waterlilies.

Chain Stitch. The chain stitch stems are worked in one strand DMC 500. Follow Cynthia's stitch diagram and note they are over two threads. Beware. You can give your thread a tug and unravel all you've done. When I changed direction on the stem, I tacked down the chain stitch. The small tacking stitch was hidden by the cross-stitched leaves.

Cross-Stitch Leaves. Done mainly in Needle Necessities Spruce. The black dots are cross-stitches done in one strand DMC 500.

You have now finished the "dreaded" Area 14! I hope this is helpful and clear. As always, please post any corrections or questions. I now turn the discussion of the remaining bands back to Joanie

Areas 15 & 16

Hi everyone!
Well, we got through area 14 thanks to JANINE!!! YOU GO GIRL! Now it's on to easier things. First of all area 15A is done in Waterlillies Silk in Navajo. I love this thread. You want to graph out your initials on a piece of graph paper. I wanted to use my middle initial, but it wouldn't fit. So I just used my first and last initials and spaced them out to fit the area. BUT: I didn't stitch this area until I did sections 15B and C. I wanted to make sure that I got it centered in the area so that it wouldn't look too weird.

Section 15B: Stitch this Florentine Stitch Motif in DMC 3023, 500, and 315. The instructions say to use 1 strand of thread, but I used 2 cause I thought that it covered better. Following the instructions you will begin at the bottom motif using DMC 500 (the dark grey area on the graph.) The Florentine Motif lines up with the other bands, you will begin the dark grey area (DMC 500) 4 threads in from the edge. It's worked like a satin stitch. If you are using 2 strands make sure that they lie side by side flat. You will work each color sequentially over 2 or 4 threads. The Florentine Motif is very pretty stitched.

Section C: Section C is done in horizontal bands of Hungarian Stitch. One again, the pattern calls for 1 strand of floss but I used 2 for coverage. You will follow the diagram and the dark areas are in DMC 500, Lt. Grey areas in DMC 316 and white Areas in 3023. This band aligns up with the right side of the sampler. I counted 15 threads in from the right side and began stitching with DMC 3023. If you want, begin on the right side. It may be easier to begin the motif on the right side and then when the first band is done, you can begin the 2nd band (DMC 500) from the left.

Area 16: Area 16 is stitched in a Long Arm Cross Stitch. I love this stitch! Use 1 strand of DMC 316 and follow the diagram. After a few stitches, you will fall into a rhythm. It's a very pretty stitch.

Well, that's it for now. The sampler is well over 1/2 way done! It's such a beauty, it's one of my favorite samplers.
Enjoy!

Areas 17&18

Area 17: This is the area where you would stitch the date. Using NN 126, Mulled Wine you will stitch the day, month and year over one. There is a terrific over one stitch diagram on the Twisted Thread website, www.twistedthread.com. Check it out, cause it really helped me understand how to do the over one stitching, and I am not as apprehensive about it any longer. (Thanks, Ruth!) Graph out the date and feel free to use whatever date you want to put on your sampler. I chose to wait until I actually finished putting the beads on the piece before I stitched the date, but you may want to use your anniversary or some other significant date in your life. I have to tell you that I got some odd looks from people who asked why my sampler has April 30, 2000 stitched on it. It is the date that I finished this piece, nothing earth shattering to anyone but me. Remember this is your piece, so put any date on it that means something to you. It won't diminish the sampler in any way...(ok, I'll get off the soapbox now.)

Area 18- Section A: Four Sided Stitched Interior Border Use DMC Perle cotton #12 in Ecru for this border.

This is such a cool stitch, what a lacy effect it gives the piece. If you started this border to place the dreaded area 14 just continue it around the sampler. If you haven't done this, then begin in the top center of the sampler and work it right to left until you come back to your starting point. Remember that the stitch is pulled to give a lacy effect. It is really easy once you get into the rhythm of the stitch. I found it relaxing to do.

Area 18-Section B: Exterior Border, Cross Stitch, Broad Diagonal Cross Stitch and Beads

Work the exterior border in cross stitch using NN139 Mountain Spruce (One strand). I did all the Mountain Spruce cross stitch first and then I went back and did the Broad Diagonal Cross Stitch. The Broad Diagonal Cross stitch is worked in one strand of Waterlilies *Cherry*. Follow the stitch diagram. When I did this border, I didn't chose to cut specific areas out to the Waterlillies because I wanted it to be variegated. Feel free to cut out sections of the silk if you don't like a section or do not want a variegated border. Backstitch the stems in Mountain Spruce.

Area 18-Section C: Double Cross Eyelet: Using one strand of Waterlillies *Cherry* stitch one double cross eyelet in each corner of the finished exterior border. Follow the diagram and pull each leg of the stitch tightly. Each leg is worked over 4 threads of fabric from the outside edge into the center hole. Two threads are left unworked between each set of 9 legs to form the pattern. I pulled this stitch tightly to open a hole in the center of the eyelet. I liked how it came out.

Lastly, I waited until the end to stitch on the beads. The beads are Mill Hill Petite seed bead #40123, Creme. I used a #10 quilting needle and cream sewing thread to put one bead in the center of each Broad Diagonal Cross Stitch on the exterior border. The only trouble that I had was making sure that when I attached the bead I inserted the needle under the legs of the Broad Diagonal Stitch. It was time consuming, and yes, I DID dump the container of beads onto the sofa, but it was well worth the effort to attach them. And as a final note, I stitched the date that I completed the sampler, over one in Area 17.

Well, that's it!!! Take a deep breath, stand back from your piece and admire it! It is a beauty and you all should be proud of completing it. I learned a variety of stitches from this sampler, so yes, for me it was a Teaching piece. I hope that you enjoyed stitching it as much as I did and it will hang in your home in a prominent place.

Thanks for letting me lead this piece, I hope that my instructions were clear and concise. And thanks for your patience while waiting for the instructions to be posted too. Thanks to Janine NY for her help on Area 14 (clapping wildly.) Take a bow, Janine!

Hugs and Stitches to all of you!

Joanie in NY

Hemstitching Hints from Janine

I've found if you reweave the cut ends the way Cynthia does it on Areas 10 and 12, there will be a defined thicker border around these areas. What I am going to suggest is that if you remove a ground thread and reweave another in its place, you take care of the extra thread and the reweaving becomes almost invisible.

YOU CAN ONLY USE THIS METHOD IF YOU HAVE NOT STITCHED THE OUTSIDE BORDER.

1. Loosen the scroll frame if you are using one and cut the four horizontal threads the way Cynthia tells you.

2. Withdraw the threads to the edge of the design area(inner) as Cynthia tells you. Here's the difference:

3. Look at the right side first. The four withdrawn threads can be seen as 2 pairs or threads 1,2, 3, and 4. With your needle, gently withdraw the second thread farther back into the fabric that won't be stitched (towards the right hand edge). Make sure you are past the outer border area yet to be stitched and possibly beyond where your mat would lay. I've seen it suggested you can even pull this thread out of the fabric completely but I've never done it. Leave this thread on the back of your work.

4. Now thread your needle with the #1 ground thread. You will now use this thread to reweave in place of thread #2. Examine the fabric until you can see the over and under pattern. You will now reweave your thread in place of thread #2, in effect recreating the weave of that thread in the fabric. Continue until you meet thread #2 and bring thread #1 to the back, making sure that you have rewoven enough so you have not left a hole in the fabric.

5. Do the same with the second pair- withdrawing thread #4 and using thread#3 to reweave.

6. When you are done with a side, trim the threads on the back of the fabric.

7. Do the same thing on the left-hand side. If you keep your tension even, you will see that the reweaving really disappears. Retighten scroll frame. Hemstitch as per Cynthia's directions. You might want to practice this first on a scrap piece of linen. DT's Lily of the Valley uses this method and LOV was done as a group stitch on this board. I think you can still find the very find directions there. Hope my explanation helps...

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